Another jig that is widely available at woodworking suppliers is the featherboard or variations on the featherboard, designed to be used with a table saw or router table to hold the stock securely against the cutting head or blade. Not only does the featherboard hold the board securely, ensuring that cuts and beads are straight and true, but it serves as a safety mechanism to help prevent kickback.

now I finally know what to recommend my friends when I try to convince them to give handtools a try (I currently am doing an apprenticeship in cabinetmaking (unfortunately mostly particle board) and said friends they do the same and often have no clue what can be achieved with handtools alone) because up until now, I never knew what to recommend for sharpening as my setup is great but very expensive. And I guess if I recommend to get two stones instead of a combination stone, one can keep one side flat for flattening the backs of new chisels, and add a strop with some polishing compound I really can’t think of anything else one would need for a long time!
For our customers who are passionate about woodworking, we offer an extensive selection of tools and accessories to help your woodworking projects come to life. Whether you are a professional carpenter, construction manager or simply wish to build a DIY project, you will find everything that you need on our Amazon.com Woodworking page. Our selection ranges from, screwdriver sets to air filtration, band saws, sanders, drill presses, dust collectors, jointers, laminate trimmers, lathes, planers, benchtop, plate joiners, belt sanders, router combo kits, shapers, sharpener, barn door hardware, circular saws, router tables, router bits, planer, tool box, wood glue, nail gun, table saws, hammers and more.
In most situations, you can take the dust bag off of the port and hook up a shop vac or an industrial dust-collection system. Many table saws make use of a standard-size dust port between 2-1/2 and 4 inches in diameter, which means it may be compatible with equipment that you already own. Some models forgo the dust bag altogether, in the expectation that you’ll be using some sort of dust collection system.
Instead of steam, he slightly altered the engine's design to run on compressed air. He modified an endmill to have steeper rake and clearance angles so that it could evacuate the chips as it cut. Endmills are normally found on standard milling machines, which spin at an average of 3,000 RPMS, but his jet powered router was designed to spin at 30,000 RPMs in order to produce a clean cut with no burn marks on the wood.

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The other kind of portable table saw is the wheeled/folding leg variety. The wheeled models come with wheels that can be used to roll them for place to place. The folding leg variety may or may not have wheels. Both models feature a mechanism by which they can be raised up and used without a table. This is what sets them apart from benchtop models.
For our customers who are passionate about woodworking, we offer an extensive selection of tools and accessories to help your woodworking projects come to life. Whether you are a professional carpenter, construction manager or simply wish to build a DIY project, you will find everything that you need on our Amazon.com Woodworking page. Our selection ranges from, screwdriver sets to air filtration, band saws, sanders, drill presses, dust collectors, jointers, laminate trimmers, lathes, planers, benchtop, plate joiners, belt sanders, router combo kits, shapers, sharpener, barn door hardware, circular saws, router tables, router bits, planer, tool box, wood glue, nail gun, table saws, hammers and more.
The first thing you’re likely to notice about this particular table saw is that it is attached to a folding stand. This is a great addition and makes the saw much more usable. Making it even better, the stand has wheels for easy transportation. Soft-start circuitry helps to improve the overall lifespan of this Bosch tool. The adequate rip length of 25 inches allows for a standard 4-foot sheet to be ripped in half easily.

The third tool for the beginner is the Jigsaw. A jigsaw allows the user to cut curved and circular patterns in stock. Sure, a band saw will likely be more accurate and can cut thicker stock, but for the beginner, the jigsaw (sometimes also referred to as a Sabre Saw) can be perfectly effective. For versatility, choose an orbital-action, corded jigsaw that feels good in your hand and has an easy blade changing system.


After using the jigsaw on several projects I have to say it exceeds my expectations. I do not have a bandsaw and have used this jigsaw to process non-dimensioned stock then worked the material with hand planes into dimensional lumber. Most recently I found an 8/4 slab of cherry that was 10" wide and 9 feet long. Using this jigsaw and a guide I was able to bring the edges and ends into rough square then work the rest into full square with planes. My table saw is not safe with a long board such as this and this jigsaw left a reasonable cut with no danger of kickback.
In most situations, you can take the dust bag off of the port and hook up a shop vac or an industrial dust-collection system. Many table saws make use of a standard-size dust port between 2-1/2 and 4 inches in diameter, which means it may be compatible with equipment that you already own. Some models forgo the dust bag altogether, in the expectation that you’ll be using some sort of dust collection system.
So, where does this tool go wrong? For starters, the blade didn’t want to quite get to zero degrees. Naturally, this means it’s not going to deliver a straight cut. While the blade is getting up to speed, the entire saw vibrates and makes a very disconcerting grinding type of noise. Definitely not something that inspires confidence! The fence also didn’t want to stay straight and tended to migrate during use. All in all, it’s a great feature set for the price, but the cheap construction is not built to last.
So, where does this tool go wrong? For starters, the blade didn’t want to quite get to zero degrees. Naturally, this means it’s not going to deliver a straight cut. While the blade is getting up to speed, the entire saw vibrates and makes a very disconcerting grinding type of noise. Definitely not something that inspires confidence! The fence also didn’t want to stay straight and tended to migrate during use. All in all, it’s a great feature set for the price, but the cheap construction is not built to last.
Wood routers come in many different sizes and matching the right size router to the job at hand will help you produce better results. If you will mostly be using your router to soften edges and create small profile areas out of a workpiece, than a compact trim router with a 1 to 1.5 HP engine is your best bet. Their small size allows them to easily be used in a variety of orientations and in compact areas where using a larger router would be problematic.
Someone on here made the point that it took them a few years before they got a clear idea about what they wanted to make. I can relate to that. I’m starting to think that I’d like to do a cabinet type build so maybe a plough plane would help with that. There are plenty of old Stanley’s knocking around on Ebay. On the other hand, I’m in no hurry to buy anything else – I feel much more inclined now to make do and explore the limitations of tools that I’ve got.
Unfortunately, nothing seemed to be completely aligned from the factory, so right off the bat, we got cuts that were far from straight. After quite a bit of adjusting and fiddling, we managed to get some pretty decent cuts, though not the cleanest or straightest of the saws we tested. We also weren’t thrilled about how long the blade took to slow down once the saw was powered off. Sometimes you want to turn the saw off, adjust your piece, and make a new cut. When the blade just continues spinning, it starts to reduce your productivity.
For very many years (since the early 70’s) I built furniture, that I still have and use, with a Stanley No4 as my one and only plane – and only one blade for it. I still have, and use, that same plane. I now have other planes, but the first one is still my ‘go to’ plane. I have just given away my set of chisels, to my son, as I have collected a few old wooden handled ones which I now prefer, but those old blue plastic Marples set did me well for about 25 years.
Cutting Fast: An obvious question when comparing the performance of different jigsaws is “which saw cuts the fastest?” I created a speed cutting test to determine the answer. First, I fitted each saw with a new Bosch Progressor blade, designed specifically for fast, rough cutting. With the help of my wife, Ann, I timed how long it took each saw to crosscut a 2x6, as shown in the lead photo on page 44. I took several passes, then averaged the times for each saw. I tried to push each saw as hard as I could without bogging its motor down. In the final tally, the premium-priced Festool turned in the fastest average time: 2.74 seconds, notable because this saw doesn’t have the highest-amperage motor or fastest blade stroke speed in this group of jigsaws. The next fastest cutting time was clocked by the Makita — less than a tenth of a second slower than the Festool. Posting a slightly slower time than that was the Bosch, followed (in timed order) by the Metabo, Milwaukee and Hitachi. The DeWALT held up the rear of the pack with a rather slow 4.27-second average time. The second-and-a-half difference between the fastest and slowest saws might not seem like much. But this time can really add up if you have dozens of rafter ends to decoratively jigsaw, or a pile of curved parts to cut out. Vibration: Regardless of how fast a jigsaw cuts, the less vibration it produces, the better. All jigsaws employ some sort of counterbalance system to reduce the up-and-down shaking created by the reciprocating plunger and blade, and some work better than others. In truth, I found it quite difficult to accurately compare the vibration of the various saws in the group, as it varied under different circumstances. For example, the DeWALT felt very smooth-running when idling at full speed. However, when I put the saw to wood, it produced noticeably more vibration. After careful consideration, I found the Bosch and Festool, closely followed by the Milwaukee and Makita, consistently produced the least vibration when cutting a variety of wood types and thicknesses with a variety of blades. That’s not to say that the DeWALT and Hitachi produce unacceptable amounts of vibration, but they just didn’t feel as smooth running as the top saws. At the bottom of the pack, the Metabo jigsaw consistently produced more vibration than any of the other saws. [caption id="attachment_7431" align="aligncenter" width="370"] One of the tests the author put the saws through was cutting melamine, which is fragile and likely to splinter when making close cuts. Cutting cleanly: Getting clean jigsaw cuts with only light splintering, tearout and surface chipping is chiefly a matter of selecting a blade that’s designed for the job. But I still wanted to see just how smooth a cut each saw was capable of producing with a general purpose blade. I fit each saw with a fine-toothed blade and set it to a medium speed with a slight orbit (#1). I then took several cuts with each on a piece of 3/4" melamine — a material notorious for chipping easily. After experimenting with different rates of feed, I selected the cutoffs that displayed the cleanest edge produced by each saw. The Bosch, aided, I suspect, by its precision control guide, left the cleanest cut edges. With cuts only slightly more ragged than the Bosch were the Makita, Festool and DeWALT, followed by the other saws. It’s worth noting that I was able to get a much cleaner cut with all of these saws by fitting them with a special saw blade designed for laminates, as well as an anti-splinter insert. [caption id="attachment_7432" align="aligncenter" width="305"] The better view you have of the cut line, the more accurate your cut will be, and the Bosch jigsaw has the best overall cutting viewpoint. Cutting accurately: The major factors that affect the accuracy of jigsaw cuts are: How well you can see the line of cut and how well the saw’s blade stays square to the workpiece (or at a fixed angle during bevel cuts). Generally, a saw with less of its body overhanging the blade is easier to use, especially when you’re working in cramped quarters or trying to follow a curvaceous line, say when cutting out a scrollwork pattern. The open front end configuration of the Bosch and Metabo make it much easier for me to see the blade without having to crane my neck. The Milwaukee and Hitachi have the most blade obscuring body overhangs, but the former’s built-in LED light helps to improve its line-of-cut visibility. [caption id="attachment_7433" align="aligncenter" width="470"] Many of the jigsaws had a slight waver in them, but the Bosch and Festool saws provided the most square cuts. It’s usually true that the thicker, denser (or more variable in density) a workpiece is, the more likely that a jigsaw’s blade will deflect when cutting it. This is especially true when cutting tight curves. To judge this aspect of cutting accuracy, I crosscut 4x4 lumber with each jigsaw. Most models left edges that wavered in squareness and up-and-down straightness over the length of the cut. The exceptions were the Bosch and Festool models, which left nearly dead square and straight cut edges. It’s safe to assume that such superior performance was likely due to the special blade guide systems on these saws, which helped prevent their long saw blades from deflecting.

Contractor models also tend to be more powerful and more precise than portable saws, which gives them a definite upside if you’re going to be doing lots of work, or work that requires a fine degree of precision. This type can also be a good choice if you’re going to leave your table saw in one place for extended periods of time, while still being light enough that they can be moved if you need to do so.


My Stanley 51/2 was in a bit of a state when I got it and refurbing it took a bit of time and cash. Now it works a treat and looks like new. I’m nearly through the bench build and have spend hours using it – it really is a workhorse piece of kit. I did some final cleaning up of some oak legs the other day and I can’t really see how a smaller plain would do a better job.


While it is possible to rip thin stock using only the table saw’s fence, you have to remove the guard and squeeze your stock and push stick through the dangerously narrow gap between the blade and your fence. Can you say “kickback”? Even if you successfully navigate this dangerous cut, you inevitably end up with burn marks and uneven cuts that have to be sanded out.
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