Unfortunately, nothing seemed to be completely aligned from the factory, so right off the bat, we got cuts that were far from straight. After quite a bit of adjusting and fiddling, we managed to get some pretty decent cuts, though not the cleanest or straightest of the saws we tested. We also weren’t thrilled about how long the blade took to slow down once the saw was powered off. Sometimes you want to turn the saw off, adjust your piece, and make a new cut. When the blade just continues spinning, it starts to reduce your productivity.
This saw is so much better than the old Black and Decker that it is replacing. The base plate is solid, the blade changes are simple, the motor has plenty of power, and the saw runs very smooth with little vibration. I have noticed a slight undercut that has been mentioned on other reviews. I tried to quantify it. If I have the orbital adjustment set to its least aggressive setting and I use a fine-cut blade, making a straight cut, I have measured a 1/32" deeper cut on the bottom of a 3/4" piece of wood stock. That may not sound like much, however if you make curved cuts, this will be noticeable with cuts in the curved areas not being at 90 degree angles to the surface. I do not have experience with other high-end jig saws to know if this an expected/common behavior. Just be warned that ... full review
Set the saw’s fence. Use the board you’re going to rip to set the fence. Hold the board against the fence and slide it until it makes contact with the jig. Set the fence so the board slides easily but without play between the jig and the fence. Make your cut and then reset the fence for the next cut. If you have a lot of stock to rip from several boards, it pays to rip all the boards to the same width first.
Do you get what you pay for? Well, to be fair, this is a very nice saw for what it is. We don’t think its feature list warrants the extravagant price tag, but it’s a very solid build. The fence is a real highpoint as it locks in place well and stays straight. The blade can reach 6,300 RPM, which is surprising for a battery-powered saw. The arms extend for a 24.5-inch rip capacity, which is a very handy feature.
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The first thing you’re likely to notice about this particular table saw is that it is attached to a folding stand. This is a great addition and makes the saw much more usable. Making it even better, the stand has wheels for easy transportation. Soft-start circuitry helps to improve the overall lifespan of this Bosch tool. The adequate rip length of 25 inches allows for a standard 4-foot sheet to be ripped in half easily.
Milwaukee is a well-trusted name in the world of power tools. This table saw is part of their cordless M18 Fuel system. It sits at the high end of the pricing spectrum, though it’s still a small, tabletop design. For this price, you would almost expect to see a stand of some sort, but not with the Milwaukee. You’re mostly paying for the portability of battery-power. Unfortunately, cordless has its own set of drawbacks. Despite the decent battery life, the power just isn’t quite enough for real job site use.
This Combination Machine is similar to the G0634Z This Combination Machine is similar to the G0634Z except it sports our popular Polar Bear colors. It also has an end-mounted fence so you can work as close to your shop wall as possible. This feature is a real space saver and since this is a combination machine you're saving ...  More + Product Details Close
While it is possible to rip thin stock using only the table saw’s fence, you have to remove the guard and squeeze your stock and push stick through the dangerously narrow gap between the blade and your fence. Can you say “kickback”? Even if you successfully navigate this dangerous cut, you inevitably end up with burn marks and uneven cuts that have to be sanded out.
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Table saws have occupied the central position in most woodworking shops since the development of modern designs after World War II. No other tool does so many things with such clean results in so little time. A table saw purchase should be made carefully to avoid getting either a machine that doesn't meet shop needs, or one that leaves too little money for other important tools. The basic choice is between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw.
That being said, they provide the best cuts out of any of these machines. They’re low vibration, have the greatest power, and since they’re not being moved around, they tend to be better calibrated. They also tend to come with higher-quality fences and miter gauges, which means that you can achieve the highest degree of accuracy when making cuts on cabinet table saws.
about three years ago I thought to make even only a cutting board I would need a complete set of machines, stationary and handmachines, plus of course a few handtools for “hybrid woodworking”, then I discovered Peter Sellers and most importantly Chris and The Anarchist’s Tool Chest, that was a revelation! So I find it absolutely awesome that you show us how to start with even less tools (especially the advice for saws is great, much cheaper to only get rip)!
Set the saw’s fence. Use the board you’re going to rip to set the fence. Hold the board against the fence and slide it until it makes contact with the jig. Set the fence so the board slides easily but without play between the jig and the fence. Make your cut and then reset the fence for the next cut. If you have a lot of stock to rip from several boards, it pays to rip all the boards to the same width first.

While it is possible to rip thin stock using only the table saw’s fence, you have to remove the guard and squeeze your stock and push stick through the dangerously narrow gap between the blade and your fence. Can you say “kickback”? Even if you successfully navigate this dangerous cut, you inevitably end up with burn marks and uneven cuts that have to be sanded out.
After using the jigsaw on several projects I have to say it exceeds my expectations. I do not have a bandsaw and have used this jigsaw to process non-dimensioned stock then worked the material with hand planes into dimensional lumber. Most recently I found an 8/4 slab of cherry that was 10" wide and 9 feet long. Using this jigsaw and a guide I was able to bring the edges and ends into rough square then work the rest into full square with planes. My table saw is not safe with a long board such as this and this jigsaw left a reasonable cut with no danger of kickback.
[caption id="attachment_7419" align="aligncenter" width="405"] The author prefers a longer handled jigsaw, as it allows you to grip it at different angles more easily for different cuts. Handle & trigger: A good handle is important on a jigsaw for user comfort and also because a solid grip is essential to controlling the movement of the tool during cutting. All of the saws in this group, save the Festool, have a rubber-like overmold covering their handles. Overmolds are softer to the touch than hard plastic, provide a more secure grip and even dampen tool vibration slightly. Of the seven saws, the handles on the Makita and Hitachi fit my medium-sized hands the best. I also liked the longer handles found on these saws (as well as several others) because their length allows for a varied grip to suit different working positions. The pommel at the front of the DeWALT’s handle allows a two-handed grip — helpful when cutting in awkward positions. [caption id="attachment_7420" align="aligncenter" width="405"] Wider triggers offer you more gripping options and control, whereas narrower jigsaw triggers can be clumsy and hard to grip while cutting. A jigsaw’s most important operational feature is its trigger that switches the tool on and off. I generally prefer a wider tool trigger that allows twofinger operation, to help reduce hand fatigue. Wide triggers also let users place their hands in a variety of positions along the tool’s handle. The Festool was the only saw in the group with a narrow trigger, and I didn’t like its stiff, clunky on/off action. I preferred the comfortable, smooth-operating, wide triggers on the DeWALT and Makita. All the saws have trigger locks, so you don’t have to hold the trigger on during long cuts. The Bosch’s trigger lock is the only one designed for use by left- or right-hand users. The Bosch, DeWALT and Milwaukee saws feature variable triggers that let you ramp up the speed of the blade gradually, up to the maximum set on its variable-speed dial. This is useful when starting cuts in very hard and/or splintery woods as well as materials prone to chipping, like tile and plastics. The Bosch’s unique trigger works with a two-step action: Pull the trigger lightly, and the saw immediately switches on to a slow speed. Press the trigger a little farther and it fully varies the speed up to the set maximum. Although the Bosch’s trigger works well enough, I prefer the triggers on the DeWALT and Milwaukee, which let you ramp the speed up from zero to the maximum set speed with one continuous pull. [caption id="attachment_7421" align="aligncenter" width="480"] All the portable jigsaws had variable speed control dials, but the locations varied, with some being harder to reach while operating than others. Variable-speed & soft start: All seven saws are variable-speed models with dials that allow you to set the motor speed and, hence, the number of blade strokes per minute. This makes a jigsaw a more versatile cutting machine: Choose slower speeds for fine cuts and when cutting dense materials and plastics and faster speeds for quicker, rougher cuts in lighter woods and porous materials. Interestingly, the saws with the highest maximum speeds didn’t necessarily cut faster than those with slower speeds. I like the position of the speed dials on the Hitachi and Festool saws. These are easier to see and set than the rear-mounted dials on the Bosch, Metabo and Makita. The DeWALT and Milwaukee have trigger-mounted speed dials that I find hard to see and set without tipping or inverting the saw. The Metabo and Makita both feature “soft-start” motor electronics that ramp up motor speed gradually when the tool’s trigger is pulled. Soft start can prevent the saw from suddenly jerking if you start cutting with the blade in contact with the material. But, overall, I found soft start more of an irritation than an aid; I didn’t like having to wait for the saw to come up to speed each time I started a cut. [caption id="attachment_7422" align="aligncenter" width="495"] One of the things to check when selecting a jigsaw is how comfortable the orbital blade adjustment is, as this will ultimately guide how aggressive your cuts can be. Selectable blade orbit: Probably the single most important feature on a topnotch jigsaw is its orbital blade action. This mechanism moves the blade forward slightly during the upstroke cut, resulting in a more aggressive cutting action than if the blade simply reciprocated up and down. The mechanism also moves the saw blade back slightly, so it clears the kerf during the return down stroke and saves wear on the teeth. Adjusting the amount of blade orbit makes the saw cut more or less aggressively. Most saws have four orbit settings: 0 (no orbit) or 1 for cutting metals and plastics; 1 or 2 for fine and curved cuts; and 3 (maximum orbit) for faster, rougher cuts. The Metabo features five orbit selections instead of four, but I didn’t find the greater range of select ability to be particularly necessary or useful. The Milwaukee has a small, somewhat handy blade orbit and speed selection chart mounted on the side of the tool. [caption id="attachment_7423" align="aligncenter" width="465"] While they are historically a bandsaw accessory, blade guides are starting to make their way onto jigsaws like these from Festool and Bosch. Blade guide systems: A unique feature found on the Festool and Bosch saws is a special saw blade guide positioned below the orbit mechanism’s guide wheel. These small metal guides work like the guide blocks on a band saw, to help stabilize the blade and keep it from deflecting during cutting. The Festool’s guide has two small prongs that contact the blade more closely at the back than at the front. They’re user-adjustable via an included Allen wrench. The Bosch’s “Precision Guide Control” has two small parallel blocks that are user-engaged via a small pushbutton. The blocks apply light spring-loaded pressure against the sides of the blade. The guide’s jaws open automatically when the blade release lever is pulled. Both of these innovative systems are very easy to use and significantly improve performance. [caption id="attachment_7424" align="aligncenter" width="475"] All the jigsaws featured had tool-free blade change systems, which allow you to safely and easily change out blades thanks to a spring loaded lever and clamp. Tool-less blade clamps: All seven jigsaws allow tool-less blade changes, employing a lever that opens the blade clamp on the end of the saw’s plunger — the part that moves the blade up and down. Tool-less blade clamps make changing the tang-style saw blades each model uses quick and easy. But each clamp is different, and some are easier to work with than on others. The Festool, Makita and Bosch blade clamps are among my favorites. The Festool’s “Fast Fix” blade change mechanism has a relatively stiff lever, but its clamp accepts blades without fuss and holds them rock solid. The Makita also has a terrific mechanism with a spring-loaded lever that’s easy to pull open and a clamp that accepts blades easily and positively. As good as these clamps are, the Bosch’s “One Touch” blade change system is my favorite. There’s no clunky mechanism or oversized blade clamp on the end of the plunger, just a simple slot. After pulling back the small, easy-to-use release lever, a spring gently ejects the blade. This can save you from burning your fingers trying to pull a hot blade out of the clamp after a prolonged cutting session. The new blade inserts easily into the Bosch’s plunger slot and latches with a positive feel. [caption id="attachment_7425" align="aligncenter" width="475"] Some jigsaws allow you to change the positioning of the footplate without tools, but most require the use of an Allen wrench which takes time, but isn't a deal breaker. Tilting footplate: Adjusting the angle of a jigsaw’s footplate (a.k.a. “shoe”) allows the saw to make bevel cuts, say for the edge of a picture frame or decorative plaque. While all these jigsaws have tilting footplates, only the Bosch, Milwaukee and DeWALT allow tool-less angle changes. Each of these saws has a lever that releases and locks the footplate easily and quickly. The Bosch’s even includes a separate dial for adjusting locking tightness. I like the Milwaukee’s wide lever the best because it operates smoothly and positively. The other four saws employ an Allen wrench, which conveniently stores on board the tool, for angle changes. Yes, using a wrench does take more time, but then again, how often does the average woodworker take bevel cuts with a jigsaw? Angle detents are very useful for locking in commonly used tilt settings. All the saws have a 0-degree detent for square cuts, and most have detents at 45 degrees and other angles as well. After checking the accuracy of the all-important 90-degree detents, I found that only the Festool and Bosch consistently kept their blades at near perfect square to the footplate. The other saws required a bit of fussing with a try square to get their blades dead on 90 degrees. [caption id="attachment_7426" align="aligncenter" width="475"] Fittings for easy chip extraction is handy, but sadly only comes with more expensive jigsaws from Metabo, Bosch and Festool Dust collection and sawdust blower: Having written many articles and several books on woodshop dust control, I’m a huge advocate of built-in dust collection on portable power tools. The three most expensive jigsaws in this group — the Festool, Bosch and Metabo — come with a chip extractor fitting for dust collection; it’s an optional accessory for the other four saws. This plastic fitting clips into the back of the saw’s footplate and connects to a small diameter vacuum hose (the Bosch comes with a hose adapter). A clear plastic chip guard snaps in place over the front of the saw to enclose the blade area and enhance chip collection. The guard must be removed for blade changes. I only tested dust collection with the three saws that came standard with the extractor fitting. Both the Bosch and Festool collected chips effectively, but there was a problem: Their chip guards limited the visibility of the line of cut, and as fine dust built up on the inside of the guard, it became nearly impossible to see. Visibility was considerably better with the Metabo when using dust collection, as its chip guard is much taller and larger and didn’t seem to attract as much fine dust. [caption id="attachment_7427" align="aligncenter" width="455"] Bosch's solution to not having dust collector fittings is a directed blower, which can be controlled via a switch on the side of the tool. An alternative means of clearing sawdust from the line of cut is to simply blow it away. All the saws feature a dust blower that uses air channeled from the motor fan to blow dust away from just in front of the blade. The blowers on all the saws do a pretty good job, save the Makita, whose airflow is rather sluggish. The Bosch has a blower On/Off lever, and the DeWALT and Milwaukee have controls for reducing the amount of blown air. Shutting off or turning down the airflow is desirable when you’re working inside your home and don’t want to launch sawdust everywhere, or when blown dust might end up in your eyes, say when jigsawing plumbing and electrical cutouts inside a kitchen cabinet. [caption id="attachment_7428" align="aligncenter" width="455"]Curiously, only the three least expensive saws tested, like this one from Hitachi, were equipped with an LED guide light. Built-in light: The Hitachi, Makita and Milwaukee all include one of my favorite portable power tool features: a built-in LED light. Interestingly, these are the three lowest-priced saws in the group (I guess toolmakers figure that the folks that buy more expensive saws also have better eyesight!). A built-in light is particularly welcome on a jigsaw, since the overhanging body tends to cast a shadow in the area of the blade. The Hitachi’s light has a small plastic pointer that conducts some of the LED’s light and sticks down in front of the blade. Although its goal is to better visually define the line of cut, I found it actually obscured the work area. [caption id="attachment_7429" align="aligncenter" width="495"] DeWalt jigsaws (amongst others) come with a removable footplate cover that is made of plastic to prevent the metal plate from scraping the wood. Other features: An accessory plastic shoe cover comes with the Bosch, Makita, Milwaukee and DeWALT jigsaws. This thin, slick plastic cover snaps in place over the tool’s footplate, allowing you to saw delicate materials — decorative veneers, plastics, Corian® countertops — without fear of causing scratches. The Festool doesn’t include a shoe cover, but it doesn’t really need one. Its cast alloy footplate already has a slick plastic covering. [caption id="attachment_7430" align="aligncenter" width="445"] Almost all jigsaws currently available come with a small, plastic anti-splitter insert that is very useful when cutting chipping prone materials like plywood. All the jigsaws in the group, except the Hitachi, come with a plastic anti-splinter insert. This small accessory snaps into its footplate to surround the area directly around the blade, like a zero-clearance throat plate in a table saw. These inserts really do help reduce splintering, and I recommend using them when taking fine cuts on splinter-prone woods and plywoods, as well as materials with delicate surfaces, such as melamine. Except for the economy-priced Hitachi, all the jigsaws in the group come with a plastic tool case. The Bosch and Festool saws have special stackable cases, each part of a system that allows multiple cases to be latched together for storage or transport. Like all other current Festool portable power tools, the Trion jigsaw features a detachable “Plug It” power cord. This makes it easier to stow, as you don’t have to wrap the cord around the tool. Plus, you can easily replace a damaged cord by simply plugging in a new one. The back of the Hitachi’s body has a loop molded in, making it easy to connect the tool to a lanyard or other hook — a nice feature if you work on a roof or ladder.
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If you’re not sure how to proceed, it’s important to take a breath and think about what you need out of a table saw. You could get a model with every possible bell and whistle, but there’s there no reason to do that if you’re not going to use it frequently. Likewise, you could just buy the cheapest model, but that doesn’t mean it’s going to be a fun machine to use.
now I finally know what to recommend my friends when I try to convince them to give handtools a try (I currently am doing an apprenticeship in cabinetmaking (unfortunately mostly particle board) and said friends they do the same and often have no clue what can be achieved with handtools alone) because up until now, I never knew what to recommend for sharpening as my setup is great but very expensive. And I guess if I recommend to get two stones instead of a combination stone, one can keep one side flat for flattening the backs of new chisels, and add a strop with some polishing compound I really can’t think of anything else one would need for a long time!
The third tool for the beginner is the Jigsaw. A jigsaw allows the user to cut curved and circular patterns in stock. Sure, a band saw will likely be more accurate and can cut thicker stock, but for the beginner, the jigsaw (sometimes also referred to as a Sabre Saw) can be perfectly effective. For versatility, choose an orbital-action, corded jigsaw that feels good in your hand and has an easy blade changing system.
now I finally know what to recommend my friends when I try to convince them to give handtools a try (I currently am doing an apprenticeship in cabinetmaking (unfortunately mostly particle board) and said friends they do the same and often have no clue what can be achieved with handtools alone) because up until now, I never knew what to recommend for sharpening as my setup is great but very expensive. And I guess if I recommend to get two stones instead of a combination stone, one can keep one side flat for flattening the backs of new chisels, and add a strop with some polishing compound I really can’t think of anything else one would need for a long time!
However, some models with cheaper table surfaces still manage to get it consistently right. It’s always important to look for problems with table flatness when reading reviews of table saws you’re considering. If you see flatness as an issue repeatedly, you can save yourself a huge potential headache by just considering a different model. If you don’t see any complaints about table flatness, even on a cheaper model of table saw, then it’s probably going to work out just fine.
[caption id="attachment_7419" align="aligncenter" width="405"] The author prefers a longer handled jigsaw, as it allows you to grip it at different angles more easily for different cuts. Handle & trigger: A good handle is important on a jigsaw for user comfort and also because a solid grip is essential to controlling the movement of the tool during cutting. All of the saws in this group, save the Festool, have a rubber-like overmold covering their handles. Overmolds are softer to the touch than hard plastic, provide a more secure grip and even dampen tool vibration slightly. Of the seven saws, the handles on the Makita and Hitachi fit my medium-sized hands the best. I also liked the longer handles found on these saws (as well as several others) because their length allows for a varied grip to suit different working positions. The pommel at the front of the DeWALT’s handle allows a two-handed grip — helpful when cutting in awkward positions. [caption id="attachment_7420" align="aligncenter" width="405"] Wider triggers offer you more gripping options and control, whereas narrower jigsaw triggers can be clumsy and hard to grip while cutting. A jigsaw’s most important operational feature is its trigger that switches the tool on and off. I generally prefer a wider tool trigger that allows twofinger operation, to help reduce hand fatigue. Wide triggers also let users place their hands in a variety of positions along the tool’s handle. The Festool was the only saw in the group with a narrow trigger, and I didn’t like its stiff, clunky on/off action. I preferred the comfortable, smooth-operating, wide triggers on the DeWALT and Makita. All the saws have trigger locks, so you don’t have to hold the trigger on during long cuts. The Bosch’s trigger lock is the only one designed for use by left- or right-hand users. The Bosch, DeWALT and Milwaukee saws feature variable triggers that let you ramp up the speed of the blade gradually, up to the maximum set on its variable-speed dial. This is useful when starting cuts in very hard and/or splintery woods as well as materials prone to chipping, like tile and plastics. The Bosch’s unique trigger works with a two-step action: Pull the trigger lightly, and the saw immediately switches on to a slow speed. Press the trigger a little farther and it fully varies the speed up to the set maximum. Although the Bosch’s trigger works well enough, I prefer the triggers on the DeWALT and Milwaukee, which let you ramp the speed up from zero to the maximum set speed with one continuous pull. [caption id="attachment_7421" align="aligncenter" width="480"] All the portable jigsaws had variable speed control dials, but the locations varied, with some being harder to reach while operating than others. Variable-speed & soft start: All seven saws are variable-speed models with dials that allow you to set the motor speed and, hence, the number of blade strokes per minute. This makes a jigsaw a more versatile cutting machine: Choose slower speeds for fine cuts and when cutting dense materials and plastics and faster speeds for quicker, rougher cuts in lighter woods and porous materials. Interestingly, the saws with the highest maximum speeds didn’t necessarily cut faster than those with slower speeds. I like the position of the speed dials on the Hitachi and Festool saws. These are easier to see and set than the rear-mounted dials on the Bosch, Metabo and Makita. The DeWALT and Milwaukee have trigger-mounted speed dials that I find hard to see and set without tipping or inverting the saw. The Metabo and Makita both feature “soft-start” motor electronics that ramp up motor speed gradually when the tool’s trigger is pulled. Soft start can prevent the saw from suddenly jerking if you start cutting with the blade in contact with the material. But, overall, I found soft start more of an irritation than an aid; I didn’t like having to wait for the saw to come up to speed each time I started a cut. [caption id="attachment_7422" align="aligncenter" width="495"] One of the things to check when selecting a jigsaw is how comfortable the orbital blade adjustment is, as this will ultimately guide how aggressive your cuts can be. Selectable blade orbit: Probably the single most important feature on a topnotch jigsaw is its orbital blade action. This mechanism moves the blade forward slightly during the upstroke cut, resulting in a more aggressive cutting action than if the blade simply reciprocated up and down. The mechanism also moves the saw blade back slightly, so it clears the kerf during the return down stroke and saves wear on the teeth. Adjusting the amount of blade orbit makes the saw cut more or less aggressively. Most saws have four orbit settings: 0 (no orbit) or 1 for cutting metals and plastics; 1 or 2 for fine and curved cuts; and 3 (maximum orbit) for faster, rougher cuts. The Metabo features five orbit selections instead of four, but I didn’t find the greater range of select ability to be particularly necessary or useful. The Milwaukee has a small, somewhat handy blade orbit and speed selection chart mounted on the side of the tool. [caption id="attachment_7423" align="aligncenter" width="465"] While they are historically a bandsaw accessory, blade guides are starting to make their way onto jigsaws like these from Festool and Bosch. Blade guide systems: A unique feature found on the Festool and Bosch saws is a special saw blade guide positioned below the orbit mechanism’s guide wheel. These small metal guides work like the guide blocks on a band saw, to help stabilize the blade and keep it from deflecting during cutting. The Festool’s guide has two small prongs that contact the blade more closely at the back than at the front. They’re user-adjustable via an included Allen wrench. The Bosch’s “Precision Guide Control” has two small parallel blocks that are user-engaged via a small pushbutton. The blocks apply light spring-loaded pressure against the sides of the blade. The guide’s jaws open automatically when the blade release lever is pulled. Both of these innovative systems are very easy to use and significantly improve performance. [caption id="attachment_7424" align="aligncenter" width="475"] All the jigsaws featured had tool-free blade change systems, which allow you to safely and easily change out blades thanks to a spring loaded lever and clamp. Tool-less blade clamps: All seven jigsaws allow tool-less blade changes, employing a lever that opens the blade clamp on the end of the saw’s plunger — the part that moves the blade up and down. Tool-less blade clamps make changing the tang-style saw blades each model uses quick and easy. But each clamp is different, and some are easier to work with than on others. The Festool, Makita and Bosch blade clamps are among my favorites. The Festool’s “Fast Fix” blade change mechanism has a relatively stiff lever, but its clamp accepts blades without fuss and holds them rock solid. The Makita also has a terrific mechanism with a spring-loaded lever that’s easy to pull open and a clamp that accepts blades easily and positively. As good as these clamps are, the Bosch’s “One Touch” blade change system is my favorite. There’s no clunky mechanism or oversized blade clamp on the end of the plunger, just a simple slot. After pulling back the small, easy-to-use release lever, a spring gently ejects the blade. This can save you from burning your fingers trying to pull a hot blade out of the clamp after a prolonged cutting session. The new blade inserts easily into the Bosch’s plunger slot and latches with a positive feel. [caption id="attachment_7425" align="aligncenter" width="475"] Some jigsaws allow you to change the positioning of the footplate without tools, but most require the use of an Allen wrench which takes time, but isn't a deal breaker. Tilting footplate: Adjusting the angle of a jigsaw’s footplate (a.k.a. “shoe”) allows the saw to make bevel cuts, say for the edge of a picture frame or decorative plaque. While all these jigsaws have tilting footplates, only the Bosch, Milwaukee and DeWALT allow tool-less angle changes. Each of these saws has a lever that releases and locks the footplate easily and quickly. The Bosch’s even includes a separate dial for adjusting locking tightness. I like the Milwaukee’s wide lever the best because it operates smoothly and positively. The other four saws employ an Allen wrench, which conveniently stores on board the tool, for angle changes. Yes, using a wrench does take more time, but then again, how often does the average woodworker take bevel cuts with a jigsaw? Angle detents are very useful for locking in commonly used tilt settings. All the saws have a 0-degree detent for square cuts, and most have detents at 45 degrees and other angles as well. After checking the accuracy of the all-important 90-degree detents, I found that only the Festool and Bosch consistently kept their blades at near perfect square to the footplate. The other saws required a bit of fussing with a try square to get their blades dead on 90 degrees. [caption id="attachment_7426" align="aligncenter" width="475"] Fittings for easy chip extraction is handy, but sadly only comes with more expensive jigsaws from Metabo, Bosch and Festool Dust collection and sawdust blower: Having written many articles and several books on woodshop dust control, I’m a huge advocate of built-in dust collection on portable power tools. The three most expensive jigsaws in this group — the Festool, Bosch and Metabo — come with a chip extractor fitting for dust collection; it’s an optional accessory for the other four saws. This plastic fitting clips into the back of the saw’s footplate and connects to a small diameter vacuum hose (the Bosch comes with a hose adapter). A clear plastic chip guard snaps in place over the front of the saw to enclose the blade area and enhance chip collection. The guard must be removed for blade changes. I only tested dust collection with the three saws that came standard with the extractor fitting. Both the Bosch and Festool collected chips effectively, but there was a problem: Their chip guards limited the visibility of the line of cut, and as fine dust built up on the inside of the guard, it became nearly impossible to see. Visibility was considerably better with the Metabo when using dust collection, as its chip guard is much taller and larger and didn’t seem to attract as much fine dust. [caption id="attachment_7427" align="aligncenter" width="455"] Bosch's solution to not having dust collector fittings is a directed blower, which can be controlled via a switch on the side of the tool. An alternative means of clearing sawdust from the line of cut is to simply blow it away. All the saws feature a dust blower that uses air channeled from the motor fan to blow dust away from just in front of the blade. The blowers on all the saws do a pretty good job, save the Makita, whose airflow is rather sluggish. The Bosch has a blower On/Off lever, and the DeWALT and Milwaukee have controls for reducing the amount of blown air. Shutting off or turning down the airflow is desirable when you’re working inside your home and don’t want to launch sawdust everywhere, or when blown dust might end up in your eyes, say when jigsawing plumbing and electrical cutouts inside a kitchen cabinet. [caption id="attachment_7428" align="aligncenter" width="455"]Curiously, only the three least expensive saws tested, like this one from Hitachi, were equipped with an LED guide light. Built-in light: The Hitachi, Makita and Milwaukee all include one of my favorite portable power tool features: a built-in LED light. Interestingly, these are the three lowest-priced saws in the group (I guess toolmakers figure that the folks that buy more expensive saws also have better eyesight!). A built-in light is particularly welcome on a jigsaw, since the overhanging body tends to cast a shadow in the area of the blade. The Hitachi’s light has a small plastic pointer that conducts some of the LED’s light and sticks down in front of the blade. Although its goal is to better visually define the line of cut, I found it actually obscured the work area. [caption id="attachment_7429" align="aligncenter" width="495"] DeWalt jigsaws (amongst others) come with a removable footplate cover that is made of plastic to prevent the metal plate from scraping the wood. Other features: An accessory plastic shoe cover comes with the Bosch, Makita, Milwaukee and DeWALT jigsaws. This thin, slick plastic cover snaps in place over the tool’s footplate, allowing you to saw delicate materials — decorative veneers, plastics, Corian® countertops — without fear of causing scratches. The Festool doesn’t include a shoe cover, but it doesn’t really need one. Its cast alloy footplate already has a slick plastic covering. [caption id="attachment_7430" align="aligncenter" width="445"] Almost all jigsaws currently available come with a small, plastic anti-splitter insert that is very useful when cutting chipping prone materials like plywood. All the jigsaws in the group, except the Hitachi, come with a plastic anti-splinter insert. This small accessory snaps into its footplate to surround the area directly around the blade, like a zero-clearance throat plate in a table saw. These inserts really do help reduce splintering, and I recommend using them when taking fine cuts on splinter-prone woods and plywoods, as well as materials with delicate surfaces, such as melamine. Except for the economy-priced Hitachi, all the jigsaws in the group come with a plastic tool case. The Bosch and Festool saws have special stackable cases, each part of a system that allows multiple cases to be latched together for storage or transport. Like all other current Festool portable power tools, the Trion jigsaw features a detachable “Plug It” power cord. This makes it easier to stow, as you don’t have to wrap the cord around the tool. Plus, you can easily replace a damaged cord by simply plugging in a new one. The back of the Hitachi’s body has a loop molded in, making it easy to connect the tool to a lanyard or other hook — a nice feature if you work on a roof or ladder.
My Stanley 51/2 was in a bit of a state when I got it and refurbing it took a bit of time and cash. Now it works a treat and looks like new. I’m nearly through the bench build and have spend hours using it – it really is a workhorse piece of kit. I did some final cleaning up of some oak legs the other day and I can’t really see how a smaller plain would do a better job.
First up is the portable table saw. There are two variations in this category, the first of which is the benchtop. As the name implies, the benchtop table saw is designed to be used on top of a table or bench. They’re small, so that it doesn’t matter which table or bench you put them on, and they’re light enough to be carried from place-to-place. This type of saw was originally meant for construction, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t get good use out of it in your shop or garage.

The other kind of portable table saw is the wheeled/folding leg variety. The wheeled models come with wheels that can be used to roll them for place to place. The folding leg variety may or may not have wheels. Both models feature a mechanism by which they can be raised up and used without a table. This is what sets them apart from benchtop models.
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Consequently, they’re going to be a bit heavier than benchtop models. However, their expanding frames mean that you’ll be able to use them even in places where you don’t have access to a table or bench. This is great for construction work, or situations where you’re going to be working outside. This type tends to be a little bit bigger than the benchtop variety, and often has more rip capacity as well.
Karen Bennett lives in Chicago with her family, and when she’s not writing, she can usually be found practicing yoga or cheering on her kids at soccer games. She holds a master’s.degree in journalism and a bachelor’s in English, and her writing has been published in various local newspapers, as well as “The Cheat Sheet,” “Illinois Legal Times,” and “USA Today.” She has also written search engine news page headlines and worked as a product manager for a digital marketing company. Her expertise is in literature, nonfiction, textbooks, home products, kids' games and toys, hardware, teaching accessories, and art materials.
The DEWALT DW745 is a smaller version of the DEWALT DWE7491RS. It’s still a good saw in its own right. It comes with a 15-amp motor, just like the larger unit, though it can only handle rips of up to 20”. You’ll experience the same power and consequently, the same speed as the larger model, though you can’t cut pieces as large. This model is also meant to be moved, and while it doesn’t have wheels, it has a metal roll cage that will help it survive travel without taking any damage.
There are still some works that can be done by jigsaw.  : model making, model, palette, etc. However, the materials on the market are all different so the blade of your device should always be replaced when you change material. And for quick and easy use, I will advise you to choose a device whose blade is easy to mount, such as devices that offer a self-tightening blade attachment.

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