Electronic feedback circuitry can be useful to increase the lifespan of the engine and make the wood router easier to handle. Essentially it monitors the engine load and adjusts the torque to match. This prevents the router motor from lagging or stalling when hitting dense patches of wood, which also helps reduce the chance of it spinning out of control when it suddenly speeds up again.
My Stanley 51/2 was in a bit of a state when I got it and refurbing it took a bit of time and cash. Now it works a treat and looks like new. I’m nearly through the bench build and have spend hours using it – it really is a workhorse piece of kit. I did some final cleaning up of some oak legs the other day and I can’t really see how a smaller plain would do a better job.
For people who need a multitasking jigsaw and need to cut various materials including wood, plastic, PVC, and steel, we recommend getting this PORTER-CABLE PCE345 6-Amp Orbital Jigsaw which is our 3rd pick for the list. This corded jigsaw for woodworking is quite powerful since it is able to deliver a cutting speed of up to 3,200 which only a corded machine can deliver.
This is the third box joint jig I have purchased and I wish I had of bought this one first instead of trying cheaper alternatives that didn't work out. Once you put this tool together, it's a snap to use. One test cut using the dado blade of choice (won't work with a wobble dado) is all that's needed. Once you zero the tool to your dado blade edge, an extremely clever dual lead screw internal to the tool simultaneously sets the pin and slot spacing without any additional adjustments. It's beautiful American made ingenuity that I am delighted to own. The construction of the tool is simply first class. I have no doubt it will last me forever. The parts that get chewed up (backing plate etc.) are easy to create duplicates out of shop scraps. An excellent video came with ... full review
Unfortunately, nothing seemed to be completely aligned from the factory, so right off the bat, we got cuts that were far from straight. After quite a bit of adjusting and fiddling, we managed to get some pretty decent cuts, though not the cleanest or straightest of the saws we tested. We also weren’t thrilled about how long the blade took to slow down once the saw was powered off. Sometimes you want to turn the saw off, adjust your piece, and make a new cut. When the blade just continues spinning, it starts to reduce your productivity.
Consequently, they’re going to be a bit heavier than benchtop models. However, their expanding frames mean that you’ll be able to use them even in places where you don’t have access to a table or bench. This is great for construction work, or situations where you’re going to be working outside. This type tends to be a little bit bigger than the benchtop variety, and often has more rip capacity as well.

This saw is so much better than the old Black and Decker that it is replacing. The base plate is solid, the blade changes are simple, the motor has plenty of power, and the saw runs very smooth with little vibration. I have noticed a slight undercut that has been mentioned on other reviews. I tried to quantify it. If I have the orbital adjustment set to its least aggressive setting and I use a fine-cut blade, making a straight cut, I have measured a 1/32" deeper cut on the bottom of a 3/4" piece of wood stock. That may not sound like much, however if you make curved cuts, this will be noticeable with cuts in the curved areas not being at 90 degree angles to the surface. I do not have experience with other high-end jig saws to know if this an expected/common behavior. Just be warned that ... full review
Although this saw doesn’t give us anything to harp on when it comes to operation, it has one massive design flaw that handicaps it. The motor is open to all of the sawdust you’re cutting. This causes the saw to have common longevity issues, dying short of the two-year mark. Despite the great functionality, it won’t be much use once the motor dies. For the high price, we’d hope for a great warranty to accompany this tool, but instead, we get a very mediocre one-year policy. When spending so much on a table saw, we think the better choice is to spend it wisely on a good long-term investment that will last for years of use.
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The primary reason why people buy jigsaws is that they have to take care of a lot of woodwork. However, they also explore different options so that their jigsaw can be used for cutting multiple materials including plastic and steel. So most of our lists tend to cover the complete criteria. But today, we are only going to take over the matter of the Best Woodworking Jigsaw.
Many beginners trying to get started in woodworking take one look at their budget and worry about how they can afford to buy a whole shop full of power tools to get started. Fortunately, one doesn't have to spend a fortune to get started. There are really only seven woodworking tools that I would recommend any beginning woodworker have on hand from the start, and most are relatively inexpensive. However, with these seven tools, a beginner can tackle quite a number of projects.
Set the saw’s fence. Use the board you’re going to rip to set the fence. Hold the board against the fence and slide it until it makes contact with the jig. Set the fence so the board slides easily but without play between the jig and the fence. Make your cut and then reset the fence for the next cut. If you have a lot of stock to rip from several boards, it pays to rip all the boards to the same width first.
Power: What kind of woodworking will you do, how often will you do it and what kind of materials will you use? If portability is important, you'll want a jobsite saw. If you're a hobbyist and want a saw that can handle most home shop requirements, a contractor saw might be right for you. If you run a professional shop, you might want the power and durability of a cabinet saw.
That being said, they provide the best cuts out of any of these machines. They’re low vibration, have the greatest power, and since they’re not being moved around, they tend to be better calibrated. They also tend to come with higher-quality fences and miter gauges, which means that you can achieve the highest degree of accuracy when making cuts on cabinet table saws.
There is a BIG difference in a cheap jigsaw and one that costs a bit more. Seriously, a BIG difference. I hated using my old jigsaw ($35 dollar hardware store special.) This one is awesome. Glides through plywood. Has several settings that actually make a difference in how it cuts. If you are on the fence about buying a more expensive jigsaw, do it. There really is that big of a difference.

After you have chosen the perfect table saw for your woodshop, the next major purchase one should consider would be a compound miter saw. While not as expensive as a quality table saw, a compound miter saw is invaluable for cutting compound angles (beveled, mitered and combination cuts) on the ends of a piece of stock. Once you develop your ability to make precise cuts with a compound miter saw, you'll find that your circular saw spends a little more time in the drawer than it used to.


I agree, that’s a nice and easy set up to start with. I’d say a block plane it’s handy for small areas, and touch ups. A no.5 is excellent but a bit heavy and tiring sometimes. I find that a nice rabbet block plane (shoulder + block) with two irons with different sharpening angles it’s essential to me. One fine flat rasp and a medium flat file would complete my set.
I am not a power tool guy. My only power tools before this had been a hand-held drill (from 1980) and a hand sander. But I needed to put two cat doors in our house and needed something to cut the openings in our solid-wood doors. The same day that this saw arrived on the front porch, I managed to cut openings in two doors with no issues. (Well, no issues with the saw, anyway. Given my limited power-tool skills, I ended up adhering to the "Measure once, cut twice" rule. But that's my shortcoming, not the saw's.)
I am not a power tool guy. My only power tools before this had been a hand-held drill (from 1980) and a hand sander. But I needed to put two cat doors in our house and needed something to cut the openings in our solid-wood doors. The same day that this saw arrived on the front porch, I managed to cut openings in two doors with no issues. (Well, no issues with the saw, anyway. Given my limited power-tool skills, I ended up adhering to the "Measure once, cut twice" rule. But that's my shortcoming, not the saw's.)
As someone who finds hand planing a challenge the minimalist approach seems like the best way to truly learn a tools quirks and develop the skill required. So the Veritas BU planes are going along with the Tormek required to sharpen those gargantuan irons and a diamond plate and oil stone are on the way to get my old Stanley no 5 humming. I never found a sharpening routine that didn’t look a ball ache to keep the BU planes working well and being a stick thin wimp the weight of the buggers for anything more than controlled smoothing shavings knackered me out.
Do you get what you pay for? Well, to be fair, this is a very nice saw for what it is. We don’t think its feature list warrants the extravagant price tag, but it’s a very solid build. The fence is a real highpoint as it locks in place well and stays straight. The blade can reach 6,300 RPM, which is surprising for a battery-powered saw. The arms extend for a 24.5-inch rip capacity, which is a very handy feature. 

Set the saw’s fence. Use the board you’re going to rip to set the fence. Hold the board against the fence and slide it until it makes contact with the jig. Set the fence so the board slides easily but without play between the jig and the fence. Make your cut and then reset the fence for the next cut. If you have a lot of stock to rip from several boards, it pays to rip all the boards to the same width first.
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